The 2 points shown on these gears will need to show through a hole at the same time when the gears are meshed right with the drum and shifter gear in neutral. (oops, bottom scrib moved up just a bit)

Install the spring, gear, shaft and cotter pin into the lid. the shaft must line up with the notch as shown (shaft) and the small rib on the gear at the neutral switch hole....

There are timing marks on the shift shaft gear and the shift drum, both hard to see. Best way I found to make sure all is timed right is to look in the drum detent hole (far left hole) neutral switch hole (right hole) and have them all fall in line with the shift shaft groove in the spot facing forward like this.

Clear as mud huh?
Next up is the ratchet back steel plate. this plate has a slight adjustment possible to time the ratchet parts.
With the shift drum turned to the third gear spot align the notch of the plate with the shaft notch like this...

Pack the spring channels with a good waterproof grease and pop the springs in....

Next is the shifter pawl carrier, pawls and springs. Don't over load the pawls with grease, just a light coat here. Sluggish shifting will sure happen in cool temps. note there is a groove in each pawl, it lines up with a roll pin in the bore that it slides into and keeps it from spinning, these pins wear off and cause all sorts of shifting problems.....

Once the pawls and springs are in, install the cover and screw to keep them in.
Install the forks on their shifter clutch and slide the pin in. make sure not to loose or drop these rollers in the case now....

Place the gauge over the rollers on the forks and make sure the dowels locate the gauge...

Doing this will make sure the shifter clutches are centered between their gears in neutral.

If they are not exact centered, the forks can be shimmed either direction...

Just move the shims from one side to the other or ad more if needed.

No better time to install the sprocket than now before the lid goes on. I lock the trans in 2 gears at once (low and high) to keep the main drive gear from turning. use loctite (red weld) on a "NEW" nut (left-hand thread) and nut lock, used stuff will bite ya here and work loose.....

Geez, ya think this will ever end?

I oopsed again here and ran out of batteries and didn't get the throw out bearing and push rod pic before I buttoned up every thing.

Here is a shot of how I test for leaks...

It's nothing trick here, just an old clutch hub, belt and a 1/3 hp electric motor. I fill the trans with car automatic trans fluid for testing. Atf does a few things for me here. First it cleans all the grease out of the rollers so oil can flow in easy, it's red so leaks will show quick and it's thin so the electric motor spins it easier. U let it go like this for a half hour shifting into all gears a few times. Then I drain all the atf fluid and refill with a full synthetic 75W90 gear oil.